Writing and Photos by Lane Justus, Education and Outreach Americorps Staff
After packing up my things in Northwest Arkansas, I began my journey to Eastern Washington at the end of February. Although I didn’t have the vaguest idea of what to expect when I imagined myself moving to Washington, I was definitely not picturing the arid landscapes of the Moses Coulee/ Beezley Hills (MCBH) Preserves.
I’ve been amazed at the astonishing biodiversity within this rocky shrub-steppe land.
Sun reflecting on Whisper Lake
I’ve made it a personal mission to frequently hike a trail within the preserves. The out-and-back trail follows the edge of a small lake, gains elevation through a clear path between rocky outcrops and sagebrush, and leads to an overlook of the Moses Coulee wall.
In following through with this mission, I’ve come to conclude a few things:
Snow on the sagebrush and shrub-steppe landscape after a mid-March fall.
Owning a camera does not make you a good photographer. I can attest to this by sharing the countless photos of blurry landscapes, flowers, and swimming ducks.
Although both areas offer very rugged terrain, there is little physical similarity between the oak-hickory forests of the Ozark mountains in Northern Arkansas and the sagebrush oasis that is Moses Coulee/ Beezley Hills in Eastern Washington.
While it wasn’t what I was expecting, I could not be happier to be right where I am: adapting to my new environment and learning new things every step of the way.
Aside from being surprised every time a bird abruptly flies out of a bush in front of me, or convincing myself that every revved car engine that I hear from the main road might be a mountain lion growl, these nature walks have been the most peaceful parts of my day.
I’ve seen drastic natural changes on and around the trail. I’ve hiked to the overlook on warm, sunny days and also gloomy ones; morning, mid-day, and evening. I’ve seen the path clear, but also covered with over a foot of snow. I find myself in awe of the natural biological changes that are associated with these differing weather conditions. I have also been delighted to capture subtle changes as winter shifts to spring.
Moss and lichen growing on basalt.
As I became more familiar with the trail and my environment, I’ve also seen myself becoming more of a naturalist – giving attention to things that I hadn’t noticed in my earlier trips, like the intricacies of the moss and lichen growing on the basalt, for example.
My journey always begins on my front porch. I walk past a Say’s phoebe nest in the rafters of the patio. The parents seem to have adjusted to my common intervention into their space. I follow the edge of the lake to the trailhead and as I enter the trail, my attention shifts from the mallards and American coots diving in the water to the tall sagebrush and rubber rabbitbrush. Remnants of several different animals remind me of the varying wildlife that also call the Preserves home. I step over mule deer and sage thrasher tracks in the dried dirt, pass jackrabbit scats, and hike around large badger holes that are likely now home to smaller mammals.
Redwing blackbird
As I make my way over a slight hill, I’m met with my first view of the Moses Coulee wall. I continue down the path, walking past clusters of cushion (Hood’s) phlox and gold star that are scattered throughout the arid terrain. The brown and grey undertones of the shrub-steppe landscape make it easy to spot the bright colors of wildflowers in bloom. Small bands of narrow-leaf (nine-leaf) parsley greet me when I arrive at the switch back that will take me to the overlook.
Strong gusts of wind ensure that I don’t get too warm as the sun begins peering through the clouds above me. The path widens and becomes rockier as I walk up the northwest side of the ridge. Even within the shallow soil of the rock cliff, wildflowers are growing. I step around woodland stars, dagger-pod and yellow bells as I approach the coulee overlook.
I’ve seen this view many times and I never feel like photos truly capture the majestic scenery. To my right, I stare over the lake in front of my lodging. Duck calls and red-winged blackbird songs echo between the coulee walls, and a prairie falcon glides through the air above me. I turn my head to the left, as if I were taking a panorama picture with my eyes. Sage brush floods the landscape until reaching the Moses Coulee wall opposite of me. In the distance, beyond the coulee, snow-covered mountains seem to be held in place by the sky surrounding them.
The Moses Coulee Wall.
Upon beginning my decent from the overlook, I’m always reminded of how fortunate I am to help TNC protect this land. I’ve been able to explore much of the area’s flora and fauna from only a short distance away from my front door. Every day, I’m seeing and learning about new animals and wildflowers, and becoming fonder of my new shrub-steppe habitat.
For as long as the rattlesnakes allow it, I hope to continue these walks, capturing as many blurry wildlife pictures as are necessary to end up with a few in-focus shots. As we move through the season, I look forward to bringing you along with me through virtual nature updates from my new home: the Moses Coulee/ Beezley Hills Preserves.
